Among vintage Rolex collectors the Explorer II ref. 1655 quietly commands respect, it arrived in the early 1970s as a purpose-built tool watch and over time it has become a genuine collectors’ favourite. The 1655 was designed for cave explorers and speleologists, its fixed 24-hour bezel and large arrow hand made it simple to tell day from night when you spent long periods underground.
You’ll often see it nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” Rolex, the story is more myth than fact, there’s no solid evidence he wore one, but the name stuck and it helped the reference find an audience. The charm of the 1655 isn’t marketing, it’s character, a bold orange 24-hour hand, a busy dial and a look unlike any other Rolex of the era.
What collectors value now is rarity and originality, unpolished cases and original tritium lume make a real difference to price and interest. There are several “marks” of 1655, subtle changes in fonts, hand lengths and dial printing that specialists track closely, so provenance and condition are everything. The more original a piece is, the more collectors notice the details and the more it holds its story.
Technically it is a simple, rugged tool watch, powered by Rolex automatic movements of the period. Collectors will check movement stamps, service history and dial / handset originality when assessing a 1655. If you’re buying or selling one, ask for paperwork and service records where possible, and factor a service and gasket check into the cost if the watch is to be worn regularly.
If you’re local to Kent or East Sussex and want to see or sell a 1655, we help clients from Maidstone, West Malling, Ashford, Canterbury, Tunbridge Wells, Tonbridge, Sevenoaks and Eastbourne. Send clear photos and serial, or book an appointment at our Tunbridge Wells store. We offer secure nationwide courier collection as well as appointment-only viewings.
